Why do dogs chase cars 2

Young dog behavior - normal or worrying?

  • In fact, I'm wrong ... 3 and 4

    The best pay is what the dog wants.

    If 3 and 4 work, then he's got me, and that's important.

    I compare that with my athletic switch to the sport of mondioring.

    He thinks hunting decoys is great. He is allowed to chase and hold them.

    He doesn't need to look at me for that, he is welcome to watch her.

    The start signal comes through me. However, there are two variables for him: either he can go through, I allow it, or I interrupt it with the retrieval. I try to create something of equal value, so hunt with me ...

    But I don't take the chase away from him.

    Because for that I would have to change my attitude. And if he thinks hunting is great, whether it's bicycles, cars or scooters, and you don't have anything to do with it, then things get difficult.

    It shows up here.
    Sweep in front of your own door ...
  • britta_vamos wrote:

    4 dogs run down a street, a car drives by.

    1. Dog crawls into the ditch
    2. Dog looks happily at the handler
    3. Dog chases the car, but can be called up perfectly
    4. Dog catches the car, spits it out again on command ..

    I prefer my own variant:

    Dog runs next to me on command RAN or FOOT and then no more cars are chased.

    If my dog ​​looks at me happily, he will also get a treat. If he checks the cars, he gets nothing.
  • Moin Ostholstein,

    you only describe the result of your variant, but not the way to get there ...

    It doesn't help Bambi ...

    How do you teach the dog not to chase cars, not to pull on the leash, not to annoy people ...

    A dog aged 13 months, who, according to the TEin, works well on the pitch.
    Sweep in front of your own door ...
  • tinka wrote:

    What do you do when a puppy picks up its slipper and tears it apart?
    What do you do if a puppy wants to eat shit while walking?
    What is done when a puppy chooses the neighbour's bony cat as its supposed play partner?

    Let's be honest: in these situations you create the basis for interruption and the dissolution afterwards, not when the dog is already in puberty ...

    At this age the dog should already notice and be aware of the consequences of a "ban". Classical conditioning, like with clickers, only that I then reinforce negatively. And the promise of “ass full”, of course dog and depending on the situation, has to be kept from time to time, because otherwise it will be used up and, in the worst case, it will condition itself into a compulsion to activate.

    I don't want to take shit or poison bait under duress from an almost adult dog's catch, when he has seen it first, I don't want him to face a cat that might rob him of his eyesight, and I want to be able to come home without it because there is pure chaos.

    Of course, I can also teach him to report poison bait or shit, and I can teach him to tidy up the booth in a service dog fashion.

    But there are times when he has to accept that I don't want something.

    And there is enough, in this case I agree with Alex, a simple -no-, which the dog no longer discusses either.

    What do you do when the dog chases after the ball that jumps over a wall into the abyss?

    Hey ...

    we have two dogs at home, they were not damaged during the conditioning of the -no-.
    and we took over a bitch who was one year old who doesn't know that. We're still nibbling on it after three years.

    Just big rubbish if you don't have a reliable interrupt signal ...

    For us, but also for the dog. You always have to look around two corners. And that's really exhausting for everyone involved.

    It's not about sting or beating the skull at all ...

    tinka wrote:

    @ Britta

    No ... cause and effect.

    It makes a difference whether a dog is only just discovering its world and you are influencing its experiences with situations here, both positively and negatively, or whether it has often taught itself this and that in a self-rewarding way, perhaps even the approaches to it by the dog handler has variably confirmed and strengthened.

    Problem 1: Dog place is going well, that's the main thing ...
    Why is it going well there? Because the same, recurring images are always called up there in schematic form.
    Clear structure, learning in pictures. It is much easier to show the dog what you want instead of forbidding what you don't want. But even there, unwanted behavior will certainly have been punished in some form. Would be the first dog in my career where this has never been done ...

    Mmmmh, from my experience you have to be consistent there for about 10 minutes per workout. Some don't succeed either, but they can be done.

    How much view do you have on approach behavior in everyday life, how consistently do you show how it works-?

    Problem 2:
    Animal Farm ... four legs good, two legs bad ...
    We have a Presa Canario in our troop, 15 months, over 40 kg ... he does that too. A form of discipline has developed out of the joy of jumping.

    ... meet at "eye level" ...

    I don't give the puppy a shake when it starts, it should be friendly to people.
    But he can also do this on 4 paws.
    If he gets up, I piss him off by pressing his hind paws lightly with my foot. He learns to stop this by standing on his 4 paws. With 15 months and 40 kg and the will to come on an equal footing, it becomes difficult, possibly critical ..,

    Problem 3:
    I know too well about our bitch.
    she has learned, confirmed variably: it pays to hold back, at some point you will give up at the back. The stronger the "correction", the more it holds against.

    Installation of a compulsory activation.

    I was once told that if you want to counter-condition something, then from the attitude to the behavior change according to the positively reinforcing method / approach, that you need about twice the time here, as with reconditioning. This is where the HFS's ability to extinguish the fire also comes into play / comes into play.

    At now 13 months without a reliable breaker ...

    And it just has to be installed, animal-friendly, but sustainable in its effect. And the mood of the dog handler at that moment should be obvious / tangible for the dog.

    And because I interrupt it, I also prevent that.

    This is now a play on words.

    What do you do when a puppy picks up its slipper and tears it apart?
    What do you do if a puppy wants to eat shit while walking?
    What is done when a puppy chooses the neighbour's bony cat as its supposed play partner?

    In all three situations there is a sharp no ... which of course she knows and I taught her.

    yesterday I had a situation where the neighbor came to my fence ... the dog ran up to the fence, jumped up, went crazy with joy, screamed and howled ... I went there, said a sharp no! and back! ... dog went back and sat down next to me .. I could talk to the neighbor calmly, the dog sat next to me, then got up and trotted calmly back into the garden ...

    Example dog place this week: Protection service: Dog barks and moans at the tent before I give the district hearing signal ... from me comes a no ... she is quiet

    Tinka, I think I just gave myself the answer ... she knows the no, and also obeys it ... but until now I've only called her back and distracted her ...? (... which always happened with time became more difficult ... since she does not react to distraction ...
  • tinka wrote:

    Moin Ostholstein,

    you only describe the result of your variant, but not the way to get there ...

    It doesn't help Bambi ...

    How do you teach the dog not to chase cars, not to pull on the leash, not to annoy people ...

    A dog aged 13 months, but who, according to the TEin, works well on the pitch.

    Moin tinka,
    in dog training and education, many roads lead to Rome. Everyone has to find their own way for themselves and their dog.
    You can also find countless videos on You Tube, where you can pick and choose from.

    Our way of leash guiding was blocking. Blocking is also very well described in the video below.
    Later I also used a thin stick or twig as an extension of the arm for blocking.
    In the beginning the training was done without distraction and later the distraction increased more and more.

    Only when my dog ​​had understood that he was walking next to me on a loose leash when he was on a leash
    must, I demanded obedience.
    When I meet cars, joggers, pedestrians, other dogs, etc. I also make my dog ​​obedient. At the RAN command my dog ​​has to run next to me, otherwise there will be a thunderstorm.
    The thunderstorm must be adapted to the dog. With some dogs, a quick sniff or is enough
    some water splashes from the bottle and with some dogs you have to get really rough.

    Even if I had to be rough with my dog ​​in some situations, we romp around and cuddle
    still with each other.
    And my dog ​​still sleeps in my bed.

    You have already explained well why a dog works well in the dog park.
    The big distraction is also missing on the own dog place.
    Running a subordination in a pedestrian zone would be another thing.

  • It also has a bit to do with the fact that, if you do it skillfully, that the dog does not necessarily answer the no passively, but that it interrupts its behavior and goes into impulse control, it also learns to deal with frustration.

    And of course that is more difficult to achieve with an almost adult dog than with a very small one. That's where the foundations are laid. If my puppy wants to mess up my shoe, then do not reprimand it and then let it fall into a hole. Forage driving ...,
    or he can even grab the shoe.
    So that - no - only punishes a certain behavior, but not my positive mood / attitude towards the dog. The dog also learns to classify moods from me, so violence doesn't have to go hand in hand.

    You bring the example with the SD, that's what I wanted to say with Variants 3 and 4. You don't want to deprive him of his wish for territory, but only determine when it starts.
    And there are moments when nothing happens ... even if the dog wants to.
    Sweep in front of your own door ...
  • Hello Ostholstein,

    I didn't mean to say that you don't know how to do it.

    Just that, as you have now done, the statement is filled with the content of the approach.

    I always like videos too. If you then recognize the dog in the relevant approaches and not just badly copied.

    That's always the main problem ...
    Sweep in front of your own door ...
  • Ostholstein wrote:

    In this video you can see a crazy Mali. How they got this Mali under control would be of interest to me. Certainly not with treats and splashes of water.

    Well it's not that bad with mine, thank God ...
    That's right ... splashes of water would certainly not have impressed this dog ...